What’s Your Idea of the Perfect Camera and Camera Accessory Tote?
For me I would want a Canon, just haven’t narrowed it down to the point of being able to afford the higher end ones though. lol Thinking maybe a 40D or an XTI. Accessories…. lenses.
Iroquois Presents “Touched by an Angle”
Performers for the Iroquois spring play, “Touched by an Angle,” seem ever ready to jump on stage and get into character during rehearsals. Even when some took a brief moment to discuss upcoming shows and their attention was diverted, stage cues must have been floating through their head. Michael Phelps freestyle multi angle camera
My friend had my camera in my back pocket and do not believe you sat on it. Now when I turn the lens out a bit and the display shows the error goal. How can I fix it with her to carry to the store?
that can be set by a service center costs between $ 80 and $ 150 from his friend owes you money
Does anyone know if these lenses would be compatable with a Minolta DSLR like the Maxxum 5D? I have an opportunity to buy them. They are being sold with these cameras. Thanks.
Minolta SRT101 (SLR) (match-needle metering)
Minolta XE-7 (SLR) (features auto exposure, exposure override, double exposure provision, and the Copal-Leitz vertical travel shutter)
Spiratone: 20mm SUPER WIDE (f/2.8 – 16)
Minolta MC W. Rokkor: 28mm WIDE (f/2.5-16)
Minolta MD Rokkor X: 50mm NORMAL (f/1.8 – 16)
Minolta 50mm MACRO (f/3.5-22) complete with extension tube
Minolta MD Rokkor X: 58mm NORMAL Large Aperture (f/1.2 – 22)
How To Choose The Right Digital SLR And Lens Cameras
Choosing the Right Digital SLR for Your Nature Photography
It is very true that it doesn’t matter what equipment you use — it’s what you do with the camera that matters. However, there is no question that when you’re hiking through a thick jungle in the middle of central america you want to pack light. Even though the Nikon D2x has the prestige of being Nikon’s premier “PRO” camera, you may not find it’s the best fit for your nature work.
One of the first things you need to consider is how you’re going to use the pictures. Look up the magazines you want to publish your work. Send in for “submission guidelines” and find out their minimum mega pixel count. The same is true for stock agencies — browse around and decide which place you’d ultimately like to sell your work. Many organizations have their submission guideliens published on their websites. If you’re more interested in learning and doing nature photography for your own pleasure then by all means buy the less expensive models. There’s nothing wrong with a camera that takes a 5 or 6 megapixel image. You’ll still be able to blow it up to poster size if you want a special print made.
Choosing the Right Lenses
Unfortunately, no one can tell you which lenses to buy or “how to build the perfect SLR system for nature photography.” Again, it depends on the kinds of photos you like to take, your personal preference and the market where you want to sell your image.
The great advantage of Nikon cameras is that you can use older lenses on your body. This allows a lot more freedom of choice and means you can get really amazing older lenses at shockingly affordable prices.
I’ll give you an example. One of my favorite lenses is a 300mm f4 manual focus prime lens from the 1970s. Nikon especially developed ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass to provide pricise optical colour correction. This special glass (not available in all Nikon lenses) provides the sharp, clear resolution required for superb photographs. The other advantage (at least for me since I generally hike to find wildlife) is that it weighs less and packs small.
Another example — the 50mm 1.4 auto focus). It’s actually an 80mm on your body. That means you have a prime lens at 80mm that can take pictures in the darkest settings. And, because Nikon lenses has been perfecting its 50mm lenses since its inception as a company (Nikon used to include a 50mm on all its bodies until well into the late 1980s), it’s one of Nikon’s very best lenses. It’s cheap because 50mm on a 35mm camera is kind of pooey. But 80mm on a digial camera is marvelous.
Magnification – Use it to your Advantage
For wildlife photographers in particular, the one advantage of shooting with any Nikon digital camera these days is the magnification factor. Rather than create a sensor the same size as one frame of 35mm film, Nikon and most other digital SLR camera manufacturers decided to create a sensor that is smaller than the 24x36mm standard frame of the older film models. Having a smaller sensor means you aren’t going to capture all the information on the left and right and top and bottom of the frame. This may sound really bad… but there is no need to worry about what you haven’t captured because the viewfinder has been adjusted so that what you see optically is what is captured in the digital file.
The result is that the camera multiplies the magnification of all the lenses. Nikon’s magnification (depending on the camera you use) is around 1.5x. That means a 300mm lens is now magnified to 450mm. This is great news for wildlife photographers. The only drawback is that wider angle lenses (like a 17mm wide angle becomes a 25.5mm not-as-wide-angle lens. However, landscape photographers still have some options. I’ll get to those in a bit.
Lenses – Pros and Cons
While I can’t tell you the right lenses to buy for your particualr needs… I can give you some feedback/impressions about the particular lenses I am using or have used in the past.
Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 Fisheye: I never thought such a specialized lens could provide me with so much use. For more information, I’ve written a short article about how to use a fisheye lens in your nature photography athttp://www.naturestocklibrary.com/gallery/2472892
Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom – This lens is all right. I bought it as a kit lens a long time ago and it’s served well for the wider range. I wish I had saved pennies and purchased a 2.8 that offered a wider range (like a 12mm to 25mm).
Tamron 17-35mm f2.8: This is a great lens but, alas, I purchased it for a film camera and the magnification on my digital body means that it isn’t that useful in my photography right now. I’m planning on selling it (along with my other wide angle) and buying a 2.8 that has a wider range so I can do more with landscape photography.
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D AF – This is the same lens I discussed earlier. It’s small, has a low price tag, allows you to shoot in really dark situations and it’s an 80mm on a digital camera. You really can’t go wrong.
Nikkor Nikon 80-200mm f2.8D ED AF Zoom – This is a fantastic lens that stays at 2.8 no matter if you are shooting at 80 or 200mm. Again, magnification means it’s actually a 300mm zoom. Zooms are great because you can adjust your focus distance depending on where your subject is located. Not so great with subjects that are always far away (like the macaws seen here), but really awesome for docile wildlife like deer. It also has a macro function that works beautifully.
Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro, or 105 Micro for short – This is probably Nikon’s most used macro lens, probably because the lens can serve triple duty. First of all, it is a macro photography lens and it allows you to take photographs at a 1:1 reproduction ratio (on a 35mm body), which means that a 24 by 36 mm subject will fill the entire frame. Second, it makes a very good general purpose short telephoto lens. Third, it is also at least a very reasonable portrait lens (although, with magnification it may be too much of a telephoto on a digital SLR). I really love this lens for macro photography.
Nikkor 300mm f4 manual focus – While a “prime” lens doesn’t offer the flexibilty of a zoom… it’s still an ideal choice for getting the best results in your work. This is the same lens I discussed earlier and, considering it cost only $350, it’s light & the focusing is so smooth, it’s one of my favorite lenses. I never leave home without it.
Nikkor 600mm f5.6 manual focus ED Glass – Again, I paid a lot less for this lens (which is actually a hefty 900mm on a digital body and also has the famous Nikon ED glass!!) because it’s an older model and it’s manual focus. I spent $1,599 USD – but consider that a newer model would go for at least $5,000 to $25,000, depending on the f stop. Some may argue that 5.6 is a bit too narrow of an f stop but I find the compression with telephoto lenses means that I wouldn’t want to shoot a 900mm subject with anything wider than 5.6 (2.8 would make the focus far too shallow on such a far away subject). Although… for closer subjects 2.8 is magic!
In the past, I have also used the Sigma 70-300mm 3.5-5.6 and the Tamron 200-400mm 3.5-5.6 and both served well as affordable zooms while I was learning about photography. I have since sold them to pay for the lenses I currently use.
Why I LOVE and Highly Recommend Manual Focus
I used to be terrified of focusing manually. On most auto focus lenses, the focus ring is small and more difficult to use… also there’s something really easy about just allowing your camera to do the focusing work for you. I was afraid I couldn’t react quickly enough to moving subjects and that I wouldn’t be as good as my camera’s auto focus. Now I see the errors of my ways.
For wildlife (or people), you want to make sure the main subject’s eyes are in perfect focus. You won’t be able to sell any image if the eyes aren’t in focus. If you shoot a subject 10 feet away at 2.8 and use auto focus, the camera will choose the object closer to the camera (usually the nose, cheek, or eye brow… not the eye itself). A 2.8 aperture means that you will have such a soft depth of field that the eyes will appear out of focus. The older (and more affordable) manual focus lenses have the most beautiful focusing rings you’ve ever seen. I find it much easier to use manual focus on my 300mm f4 lens from the 1970s than my newer autofocus 80-200mm zoom (using the auto focus feature). Unfortuately, I find the focusing ring on the newer models a little bit pooey… but I did want to make the case for why I think manual focus lenses from the 1970s are the greatest things since sliced bread!
Rule of Thumb for Fast Subjects
You may already be aware that your shutter speed should be at least the same as the distance of your lens. For instance, you need to shoot at least 1/300th of a second if you are using a 300mm lens or hand shake will make your picture look really blurry. And anything larger than 300mm should be put on a tripod (preferably one with a ball head for wildlife work). With magnification, you may be able to get away with shooting a 300mm (a 450mm on your digital) hand-held… at 1/450th of a second or higher…)in a pinch… but investing in a good ball head tripod will really improve your results if your lens is higher than 300mm.
The Suggestion Approximately of Surgical Eyes Operation Lasik
Umpteen grouping are conversation nigh LASIK this and LASIK that, but you don’t see what LASIK is? If you are wearing conjunction lenses or glasses, likely you strength be interested in LASIK. LASIK is an acronym for Laser Assisted In Situ Keratomileusis. It is a identify of eye surgery to mold cornea and change your seeable sharpness. With LASIK eye surgery, more people have achieved turn exteroception without having to bust glasses or communicate lenses.
LASIK eye surgery uses laser beams to take the corneal tissue without disturbing nearby cells. Before that, a hinged corneal flutter is created with microkeratome vane or laser (IntraLase method) and after the implicit corneal tissue has been distant, the corneal undulation is repositioned. The undulation give lever to the underlying cornea on its own and heals apace. It is a painless work because the LASIK medico will use insensible eye drops to afraid your eye. You may believe a younger embarrassed because your eyelids are secured with a shrimpy way to stay your eye sweeping country during the LASIK eye surgery.
LASIK eye surgery has been the most favorite eye surgery these life because the cornea alterative with LASIK process is faster and inferior traumatic than additional eye surgeries, such as PRK (Ikon Crooked Keratectomy). It has been performed on statesman than one meg group in the domain. In the Federate States, the activity of LASIK surgery is regulated by the U.S. Nutrient and Ingest Body (FDA), including the approval of all examination devices utilized for the work, especially the lasers utilised for LASIK. Notwithstanding, FDS does not person the authorization to set the terms for LASIK, recommend any LASIK surgeons or clinics or laser centers or support ratings of lasers authorised for the LASIK process.
Nevertheless, not every eye problems can be bound with LASIK eye surgery. LASIK eye surgery is for people with uncouth modality problems as follows: - Nearsightedness (nearsightedness) Group who are near-sighted are only competent to understandably see things nearer them and things that are far away may seem dim to them. - Farsightedness (hyperopia) Grouping who are far-sighted cannot see nearby things clearly but fit to see understandably things that are far gone. - Ametropia People with condition are unenviable to see things understandably at any length because of irregularities in the cornea or the lens of the eye.
It can also plow people with a combination of above problems, such as myopia and astigmatism or hypermetropia and status.
LASIK cannot reverse or foreclose presbyopia, which is a identify of vision job in grouping at the age of 40 or experienced. This substance that if you score had LASIK surgery, you still fuck to crumble bifocal glasses when you already bang presbyopia.
So, if you are truly involved in LASIK to destroy your dependency on glasses or occurrence lenses, refer with your student to find if you are eligible for LASIK or not and pass certain you bed the risks and complications that LASIK eye surgery may justification. Oecumenical eye examinations, using a determine of scrutiny equipments testament be usurped and a few questions faculty be asked before you can endure LASIK.read articles more in http://lasik-doctor-eye.blogspot.com
The rampaging popularity of digital has gutted the secondary market for used 35mm cameras, and something like the Canon 7 once had value as a usable as well as collectible item. It seems the market is still holding steady for these, however, so you have a surprisingly valuable piece. The Canon 7 is a classic 35mm coupled rangefinder camera, basically a competitive “clone” of the Leica cameras from Germany ,they both use lenses with the exact same form of screw mount, made by Canon of Japan from 1961 to 1964.
The Canon 50mm f.95 lens was a monster, a pat-on-the-back accomplishment for the Canon engineers because of its extraordinary maximum aperture yet a truly awful optic in practice, that has far more collectible than usable appeal. A truly excellent Canon 7 with that huge lens should sell in the $500-$600 range these days. Oh, and to be complete, there’s an accessory viewfinder that goes with the lens…the lens was so darn big that the normal viewfinder in the camera couldn’t quite see around it! Anyway, this can be a bugger of a camera to sell because the market is rather small. If you’d like some recommendations on how best to sell it.
You have a Leica IIIa, a typical 35mm coupled ramgefinder camera, made by Leitz of Germany in 1936. It was the first 35mm camera to offer a super fast 1/1000 second shutter speed. This is a very common model, and Leitz sold over 90,000 of them from 1935 to 1939. A truly excellent example today, complete with an appropriate 5cm lens. In truly excellent condition, you would expect to get around $250 today.
The Super Baldina is a compact folding bellows camera for 35mm film, with coupled rangefinder, made by Balda of Germany from 1937 to 1940. Not a lot of collectible interest. A really fine one might get $75.
The Nikon FE, introduced by Nikon of Japan in 1978, is one of those 35mm single-lens-reflex cameras ,really one of thousands and thousands, whose current value has been gutted by the rampaging popularity of digital. Just a couple years ago, this used to have good resale value, in the $250 range, but today is a hard sell at $75.
The original Nikon F is a classic 35mm single-lens-reflex camera that maintains some value despite the rise of digital. Yours dates from about 1965. With the meter viewfinder in place, this is a Photomic prism, so you can actually call the camera a Nikon F Photomic, if everything is in excellent condition, you can probably still get about $150. That simple viewfinder, sell it seperately because they’re much harder to find and the collectors want them. In excellent shape, you’ll get $75 for that alone.
It’s a Ernst Leitz Wetzlar 9 cm, 1:4 lens, No. 455160. With protective caps. This is a pretty common lens. Over 120,000 were made from 1933 to 1963, and yours dates to 1938. The Elmar 9cm f4 was the least expensive telephoto lens Leitz offered. A truly excellent example today only sells for about $75.
A Leica IIIf, a classic coupled rangefinder 35mm camera, made by Leitz of Germany in 1953. The Leica IIIf was important as the first completely new camera introduced by Leitz after recovering from the carnage of World War II. This is a fairly common model, with over 180,000 sold from 1950 to 1956, but it still retains some value in the collectible camera market. An excellent examples, with appropriate Elmar or Summitar 5cm lens, can sell for $300-$350.
If you would like you can always go on the internet and look up some of the auction houses, ask them questions on what ever camera you would like to try and sell and they should be able to come up with a price for you. Or you can always do the reasearch yourself and learn about cameras.
Takumar 55mm lens doesn’t come off my zenit camera!?
I bought a used Takumar 55mm f1.8. Its M42 screw mount with manual and automatic modes. I used it on my E-330 camera with adapter and it worked fine. The adapater only supports manual operation. However, when I mount it on my Zenit E camera, I did it without using any mounts since its also M42. Now, the lens stuck and I read that a camera needs to have a release button in order to get the lens out. However, there is no such button on Zenit camera and the lens cannot be taken off. Can anyone give me an advise on how to handle this situation? Should I disassemble the camera?
Do not disassemble the camera. You may have had the lens out of alignment with the body when you mounted it and connection is jammed. If you really care about the equipment, I would take it to a competent camera shop and let their repair department remove the lens. Good luck.
Can I use the lenses from my old Pentax ME super 35mm SLR camera with a digital SLR?
I have a Pentax 50mm lens, a Sigma 70 – 200mm and a Sigma 500mm lens. They are all manual focus. I believe the mounting type is a Pentax K mount (bayonet fitting). Could I use them with the Pentax ist or somthing similar?
Yes you can.
If they are “A” series (an A on the aperture collar) you get full function (except autofocus). If no “A” then they are called “M” series and you can still mount and shoot, and have what’s called stop-down metering
Canon EF 50mm USM F/1.4 Lens Review 50mm – Microglobe.co.uk
what to use as background for product photography?
Hey, I got a Nikon d70 and need to photograph some products (made out of leather, like leash, etc) to put on a website. Nothing professional, but at least acceptable. So, what could I buy to use as background? It should be like 60 x 60”. I need something cheap, like a big piece of fabric. Any ideas of what and where to get?
Thank you!
Anything White such as a bedsheet would work if you stretched it out. Generally pro photography should have a white backround. You could just go to a Michael’s or JoAnn’s and look for anything white.
